These images can be clicked
for enlargement
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The area was covered by old paving stone patio - which was taken up by
the client prior to our start
The patio area that we 'took over' before decking it over! With pond at far end of the proposed decked
area. As can be seen in the image above, the sill doorstep threshold of the
doorway is only slightly above the existing patio level. Constructing a deck on
top of the existing patio, would have meant than the deck would have been
above the level of the door - and damp proof course. The paving had to be
removed in this instance.
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Image above shows the basic area and shape to be covered with decking. The
existing pond can be seen at the far end. The paving has now been removed to
allow a suitable working depth to use 4x2in (100x50mm) joists. The deck board is
1.5in thick. It was decided to use angles for the shape of the main deck areas,
with curves cut out to re-shape the pond set in the decking. The images at the
top of the page show the completed deck - with pond nicely merging into the new
surroundings.
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Joisting completed using 150x50mm (6x2in) tanalised regularised joists.
The joists were set at 2ft (600mm) centres, with the ledger board pre-prepared
with galvanised joist hangers before rawl-bolting into the house brickwork. This
provides the main stability for the decking area and ensures that there is no
'creep' across the concrete - as would be the case over time with an un-fastened
free-standing deck. After positioning of the joists into the joist hangers and
fixings, the end plate for the deck was fastened. It is good practice to ensure
that your sub deck matches the multiple widths of the deck boards that are to be
used. In this instance, the deck boards are 150mm (6in) nominal finished width.
That is to say, that allowing for an 8-10mm gap, the finished width of the deck
board will be 6in (150mm). So the sub deck should be constructed to a width of
however many deckboards the width of the new deck will be. In this case 19 deck
boards width = 9.5ft. (2.85m) at widest point. This ensures that - with careful
deck-laying - there will be no need to slice down the length of a deckboard to
make it fit. It is a good idea to start your deck at the furthest edge, which
will then be a 'clean' and neat edge, and then make any adjustments and cut outs
for drainpipes on the last board at the house.
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Much of the area decked...
At the furthest angle of the deck, it can be seen that the fascia boards have
been fixed. This is simply a deckboard, which at a width of 6in, neatly fits in
to the overall depth of the deck and joisting framework. A slight cut down into
the turf hides the bottom of the deck - ensuring that the fascia is not in
contact with the soil.
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Trimming of edges, fascias etc to finish off.
The edges of the deck are allowed to overlap at the angle - rather than trying
to cut the fascia edge angles as you lay. You will need to cut any angles from
the deckboards that are to be butted against any bay window or angled
conservatory wall of course. Then when finished, a simply cut with a good power
tool will give a nice clean edge. Make to cut a few mm out from the endplate, to
ensure that the cutting tool does not foul any metal fixings!
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Looking back towards house....
Cutting in around the pond was carried out after firstly overlapping the
deckboards on to the pond area. A jigsaw was then used to cut the curves. When
doing this type of informal shape, extra care has to be taken with the joisting
- for example to ensure that you have enough joist overhang to enable the
irregular shape of the deck to materialise. The joists can be cut back to shape
at the same time as the decking is shaped. However, this gives a problem with a
suitable fascia. In this case, pond plants were envisaged to hide the edge of
the 'open' deck.
